Entebbe is a name that is inspired by a rock, which is shaped like a chair. The mystic rock is where history and culture meet tourism, writes Gerald Tenywa
I keep descending on an unsteady and slopping path before the car grinds to a halt. As I turn to my left, Lake Victoria covers a number of rocks, and to my right is Entebbe International Airport standing in its majestic glory. The place seems to be squatting at the edge of the runway, which is part of the airport.
The beach, which is nestled between huge rocks and a cave, is a popular destination for some people within central Uganda who throng for blessings. As others chalk in the air miles, taxing the runway of the airport and hitting the skies to chase their dreams in countries abroad, worshippers move in the opposite direction, backs slouched as they crawl to the cave hoping to get better fortunes.
“This is Entebbe za Mugula, a cultural site,” declared my guide, James Yampa who was moving with me to my first stopover on a discovery journey to parts of Entebbe City.
As we stride towards the cave, the diviner tells us to wait until he dresses appropriately in his regalia: backcloth. He feels probably empowered and beams as he takes his position in front of the cave. He is well known to my guide and politely asks the reason behind our impromptu visit. “I wanted to confirm because people come here for various reasons,” says the diviner. “I receive tourists sometimes and also people who want to become prosperous.”
I quickly scan through what he says and realise that this doubles as a cultural site and tourism attraction. Despite the fact that he is a navigator of sorts in the supernatural world, he is dreadful and loathes the expansive airport, which he claims has swallowed part of the cultural site.
Entebbe za Mugula, according to the diviner, refers to the seats where a legend or Chief Mugula Bukulu bwa Wada under the Buganda Kingdom, known as Mugula, used to preside over meetings and settle disputes. This was a seat of traditional authority before the colonialists came to Entebbe and took over power from Buganda and later Uganda. The post-colonial governments have not returned power to the descendants of Mugula.
In addition to toppling over the local chief, the colonialists also contributed to the local lingua. For instance, the word ‘ntebbe’ in Luganda means chair, but it is claimed that the first colonisers did not know how to pronounce the name properly, and they corrupted it to Entebbe.
Sir Gerald Portal, no relation with the writer named Entebbe as Port Alice in 1894 when it was made Uganda’s first capital. The name was a tribute to his wife, Alice. Portal was the British Consul at that time. In 1903, the capital was later shifted to Kampala, and Entebbe’s name was restored. Entebbe was declared as a township.
Nakiwogo landing site continued to be called Port Alice, but this has since faded as the local people refer to it by the name of the local place where it is sitting.
While Entebbe and Nakiwogo have regained their indigenous names, some of the streets in Entebbe have not been named after local heroes and heroines.
Charles Musisi Serwanja who is the 32nd heir in the lineage of Mugula, says that his great-great-grandfather came to the site to administer Busiro County. Ssese County chief, Kadu Wannema, sent him.
Bukulu bwa Wada settled at a rock cave called Namilyango, which he turned into his home. This was feared because many people thought it harboured spirits. This earned him the name Mugula nziji, which means ‘one who opens doors.’ In short, he was named Mugula.
The rising water of Lake Victoria has cut off Mugula’s residence, making it look like an island. Mugula’s Court has been equally affected. However, the biggest cave is located on the mainland in a rock that supports the runway.
Bukulu bwa Wada belonged to the Mamba clan, which has more than three million clanmates. The Mamba clan has two subdivisions: Mamba-Ggabunga and Mamba-Kakoboza. Bukulu bwa wada belonged to Mamba-Kakoboza. The Clan totem is emmamba, or lungfish. Buganda has 56 clans, and the Mamba clan is believed to be the largest.
The Mamba clan are the keepers of Naggalabi Hill, where the kings of Buganda are crowned. Naggalabi Hill is where Kintu, the first king of Buganda, conquered Prince Bemba. Bemba is believed to have been the last demi-god of Buganda.
The lake had controlled access, and this was done by an official of Buganda Kingdom called Ggabunga. This practice persisted until the Beach Management Units were created and the traditional keepers of the lake sank into oblivion.
Mugula, it is revealed, has a lot to offer in relation to history, culture, and tourism. Whatever intending visitors want, Mugula’s site takes the people on a journey to their past. It could also help them to understand their future.
As I leave Mugula’s cultural site, Yampa has one conclusion: This place is worth visiting because Mugula was probably Uganda’s first immigration officer. The visitors who sailed to Uganda through the lake, particularly on the western side, landed at Entebbe, where they were either cleared by Mugula to proceed to Mengo in Kampala or were ordered back, imprisoned, or summarily executed.
It was time well spent, and I will come back for a visit to Uganda Wildlife Education Centre, or Entebbe Zoo, where I want to walk inside Mugula’s prison and execution ground.
