Like a mustard seed, Mabamba village in Kasanje, Wakiso district has grown from a sleepy and scantily built landing site to a big tourism hub. In return, the local people have embraced conservation of the nearby Mabamba swamp, writes Gerald Tenywa.
As tourists chuckle on a waiting boat, Hannington Kasasa, a local bird guide at Mabamba, walks with a swagger to attend to them. The bird-lovers have come from as far as the US and UK, and they are looking for a shoebill, a global rarity. Kasasa knows his way around the swamp, where the bird lives. He is literally in charge of the tourists’ fate.
“I know places where we have had frequent encounters with shoebills,” says Kasasa, adding that he was not making big promises because wild animals can be unpredictable sometimes.
Kasasa assists the boat’s “pilot” as they wade through the sprawling swamp. As we move, the tourists savour the birds, including the malachite kingfishers, but their biggest hunt remains the shoebill. It is one of the most sought-after birds by tourists. This is also an elusive bird that may hide behind a thicket, waiting patiently for its catch—either fish, frogs, or lizards.
I could hear Kasasa breathing heavily behind my back. I looked back at his face, and he looked tired. One of the tourists offered to lend a hand, but he insisted, and the fight between the man and the boat continued.
Mabamba Swamp is located between the mainland and Bussi Island in Lake Victoria. The bird-watching expeditions move into the swamp through channels, similar to pathways. This is enough for them to go through without damaging the swamp.
After a short while, we moved into the open water of Lake Victoria on the other side of the swamp. Guess who was waiting? The giant bird, similar to the size of a turkey, was standing in its full glory. What a sight of the bird’s mightiness! The bird lovers’ excitement rocked the boat as they struggled to catch a glimpse of the shoebill.
The cameras clicked away, and the flashes were busy. The scene was reminiscent of a president stepping out for a red-carpet photo shoot. The show lasted for about half an hour, and the Shoebill gracefully glided in the air like an aeroplane after taxing the runway. It was a spectacle, which afforded the tourists an opportunity to capture more photographs as the bird extended its imposing wingspan.
The show ended as we retreated to the Mabamba landing site, where the pleasure hunters had started their expedition into the swamp. “It is a fulfilling day for me to encounter this amazing bird,” Charlie Davies from Boston in the US told the Wild News Channel.
His colleague, who wished to remain anonymous, says the experience with the shoebill will stick with him for a very long time.
According to Kasasa, Mabamba gets 20 tourists every day and pay for guided tours into the swamp. In addition, tourists spend on other items, such as fruits and beverages.
Others who choose to stay longer or overnight will pay for accommodation and food. This means more income for the communities.
While the tour operators and guides, as well as the transporters, take most of the proceeds, the communities have reaped a lot from the tourists’ earnings. As residents of Mabamba engage more in the businesses around bird watching, the prospects are even brighter.
“Today, bird watching has become profitable, and I do not have to rely on anything else to earn a living,” says Kasasa, adding that this is because of tourism in the swamp. “We have not only become skilled in tourism but also in the conservation of Mabamba wetland.”
The visit to Mabamba does not only bring money but also builds the local economy and cures unemployment, according to Herbert Byaruhanga, a birder. “It is helping nature and people to benefit from each other,” he says.
This is about eco-tourism, which is defined as responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment, sustains the wellbeing of local people, and involves interpretation and education, according to Science Direct.
Mabamba is the closest place to Kampala where tourists can encounter the shoebill. It is located 44 kilometres away from Kampala. The expansive swamp can be reached from Kampala to Kasanje Road via Mpigi, Kampala to Kasanje via Nateete, Kampala to Kasanje via Kawuku on Kampala-Entebbe Road, or from Nakiwogo in Entebbe across Lake Victoria.
Two decades ago, Achilles Byaruhanga, the executive director of Nature Uganda, a partner of BirdLife International, made a breakthrough after earlier attempts by different ecologists.
“When he was doing research, I met Achilles Byaruhanga and took him to the shoebill,” says Kasasa, adding that he has been a pillar of support in empowering Mabamba to engage in tourism and conservation. “As I speak, about 60% of the people at Mabamba are involved in tourism,” he continued. “I can tell you that nobody can touch our wetland or poach the wildlife in the swamp.”
He added, “We have arrested poachers and stopped sand miners, including Chinese who were on a drive to destroy our swamp.”
It is important to note that communities are powerful when they are organised and mobilised to fight for the environment.
“What we do is link up with the different government agencies when there is trouble. We arrest the poachers and hand them over to the police. We chased the sand miners, and they have not come back,” says Kasasa. “We cannot allow people to destroy wildlife or the wetland.”
He says they formed the Mabamba Wetlands Ecotourism Association (MWETA), which has helped them link up with likeminded institutions to promote conservation and prosperity in Mabamba. MWETA has also teamed up with non-governmental organisations (NGOs), such as Nature Uganda and Environmental Alert, to promote sustainable livelihoods and reduce pressure on the swamp. “We got goats, which have created an alternative livelihood for some of the local people,” says Kasasa.
In addition, Mabamba has benefited from the training provided by leading birders Herbert Byaruhanga, Johnie Kamugisha, and Hassan Mutebi. The birders and tour operators have helped to market Mabamba as a tourism destination globally.
“We are protecting the swamp; tourism has expanded. I was alone in the beginning, but now most of the residents depend on eco-tourism,” he says.
Kasasa says they have come from very far because they did not know anything about bird tourism or ecotourism. Previously, tourism focused on large mammals such as elephants, unaware that they had a “goldmine” of millions of birds.
In Uganda, there are an estimated 1,100 bird species, including charismatic species like the shoebill. Mabamba has globally important species, such as the blue swallows, in addition to the shoebills.
“We want an information centre,” says Kasasa, adding that this should have a resting place for the tourists returning from the swamp. “We also want a good latrine.”
Willy Bugimbi, the vice president of MWETA, says they have been saving some of the proceeds from bird watching and that they want to reinvest them in an upscale accommodation facility. He also stated that they want to set up a supermarket in Mabamba so that tourists can get whatever they need on the swamp’s fringes.
The Wakiso district administration has registered MWETA, and it collaborates closely with government agencies like the Wetlands Management Department and the National Environment Management Authority (NEMA).
As an important bird area, Ramsar Site
According to research findings, Mabamba is one of Uganda’s ecological assets. Achilles Byaruhanga’s research highlights the richness of species in Mabamba. Two decades ago, researchers named Mabamba as one of Uganda’s 33 important bird areas.
In 2006, Mabamba received recognition as a Ramsar site, a wetland of international importance. This is one of the biggest homes for the Blue Swallows globally. The site also serves as an important habitat for fish locally known as mamba. It is also a cultural site for the Mamba clan. This is one of the 52 clans of Buganda.
Mabamba’s magicians
Mabamba is a vital wetland, not only for the people of Mabamba or Kasanje, but also for the rest of the world. “It is a globally important site,” says Achilles Byaruhanga.
He added, “We’ve worked with the community in the swamp neighborhood.” The community has been at the forefront for more than 25 years. We have demonstrated that the community can benefit and protect the wetland.”
This rhymes with the policy. “While people have been singing the policy, we have descended not only to remind communities about their responsibilities, but also to empower them to benefit from the swamp.”
Expert opinion
Patrick Byakagaba, a lecturer in the school of environmental science at Makerere University, describes the intervention at Mabamba as part of a nature-based solution.
According to him, Ugandans agree that the Constitution and the National Environment Management Act should protect the wetlands. “We must safeguard them for future generations,” he says.
“One approach to achieving this is through nature-based solutions, where people benefit without degrading them.” Eco-tourism is not extractive, and we can achieve a balance. It is a triple-win benefit—you are addressing livelihood needs, ecological integrity, and climate change,” says Byakagaba.
Mabamba is truly a wonderland. It’s also a place where birders can quench their thirst for bird watching. This has not only enabled the local people to earn income but also to take on the role of stewards in one of Uganda’s largest bird sanctuaries.
UWA’s reaction
According to Sam Mwandha, the executive director of the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA), Kasasa and his colleagues have given UWA a helping hand.
“Anything to do with conservation requires stakeholder involvement,” he says, adding that UWA has only 3,000 staff, which is a drop in the sea. “We have to engage the communities.”
He added, “The visitors come with money to see the birds and leave them behind as long as there is value for them. This has a ripple effect on people and the environment.”
Mabamba steals the show
As the Ministry of Water and Environment, we are looking at Mabamba as a model for wetland conservation, according to David Okurut, Commissioner of the Wetlands Management Department. “We want wetlands that can be used for services such as eco-tourism, which help people attract money. People should lean from Mabamba that it is possible to earn money from the environment without destroying it,” says Okurut.
Apart from eco-tourism, Mabamba is also important for conservation of water, herbal medicine, and a source of raw materials for handicrafts. “We want communities to access money from government programmes such as the Parish Development Model and investing in sustainable use of swamps.”
Kasasa’s star is shining on the shores of Lake Victoria, which has always been starved of development. Mabamba has been reborn as a lifeline to thousands. This speaks to empowerment masterminded by Nature Uganda, the private sector, receptive communities, and the pro-poor government’s policies on conservation. Is it possible for millions of Ugandans to walk in Kasasa’s footsteps to the promised land?
